A Tango with Taxi Drivers in Argentina

A country that arouses her passions - that's how American expat Layne describes Argentina, where she's been living for more than three years already. Here she talks about her work as a freelance writer, the unusual method she uses to taste various cuisines in Buenos Aires, and her suggestions about how to approach Argentine life and culture.

-Where were you born?
Bellflower, California, USA
-In which country and city are you living now?
Buenos Aires, Argentina
-Are you living alone or with your family?
Alone
-How long have you been living in Argentina?
3 1/2 years
-What is your age?
34
-When did you come up with the idea of living in Argentina?
I'd been planning on living abroad since 2003. The fact that I spoke Spanish combined with the vibrancy of the arts/culture/literature scene in Buenos Aires made it an attractive choice.
-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?
I still don't have one!
-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?
I don't have medical insurance. I go to the German Hospital and pay for appointments as I go. It's affordable and the quality of care is excellent. There are affordable options (about $100-150US per month) for health insurance via an organization called Expat Connection.
-How do you make your living in Argentina? Do you have any type of income generated?
I work as a freelance food and copywriter. I lined up the copywriting gig in the US and have been building up my food writing over time in Buenos Aires. In both cases, networking opened the doors.
-Do you speak Spanish and do you think it's important to speak the local language?
I speak fluent Spanish and think it's essential to understanding and appreciating Buenos Aires. You can survive without it, but you miss an awful lot.
-Do you miss home and family sometimes?
I miss my family, my friends, and my Mexican food. I dance tango, do restaurant reconnaissance, and try to take advantage of all the arts/culture festivals that the city of Buenos Aires sponsors. From jazz to tango to literature to food to nights at the museum, there's always something new happening.
-What about housing, have you bought, or are you renting a home? How much do you pay for it?
I'm renting a semi-furnished apartment in an upper-middle class neighborhood called Belgrano for $650/month.
-What is the cost of living in Argentina?
This varies depending on how you want to live. If you want to go out to dinner, to clubs and take taxis everywhere, you could easily spend $2000US per month. You could probably live on half that amount if you looked hard for a cheap place to live and took public transportation. Keep in mind that inflation is changing (i.e. increasing) the cost of living every day.
-What do you think about the Argentines?
Argentines are famous for their warmth, curiosity and intelligence. They seem a bit mystified by all the foreigners who are coming to live in their country.
-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Argentina?
It's difficult to feel apathetic and live in Argentina. It's a country that arouses your passions - for good or for ill. There are days when I'm absolutely in love with Buenos Aires - when random people on the subway ask me about book I'm reading, or when I get into a taxi and the driver has the radio tuned to the tango station. But there are days when the city breaks my heart - when I see people digging through the garbage in the wealthy neighborhoods, when I realize that many of the city's workers have to commute 2-4 hours a day to get to their jobs.
-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Argentina?
Be prepared for contingencies. Nothing is secure. Nothing is certain. Approach Argentina as you would approach the tango - listen to the music and be at peace with the fact that you have no idea where you'll end up.